Sunday, March 16, 2008

Varkala . . . Valhalla?


Hey, all! I just have time for a quick update as where we presently are having very frequent power failures that usually last anywhere for 10 minutes to 3 hours. We have a lot to catch up on - Edit - we've updated the blog to show a few places in Pondicherry (complete with French colonial influences); the Sri Aurobindo Ashram where we stayed for a mere 100 rupees ($2.50 US) per night; the beach where we ate plates of super-fresh pineapple for 10 rupees a pop and watched families play in the night air; and the scenic streets where we whiled away the time just looking at the architechture and smelling the aromatic trash heaps obscured carefully from view.
We took an arduous, bumpy, stop-and-go, hot, crowded, 22-hour bus ride across southern India from Pondi to Trivanrum (on the West coast). We are currently in Varkala - a scenic town built precariously on sea cliffs, overlooking a strip of sandy beach. We have been here for 3 nights, and will leave tomorrow morning for the backwaters of Kerala. Varkala is beautiful - but quite touristy. Apparently it is a hot-spot for Euros, but we have fortunately missed the really crazy times where there are too many people and many visitors have to sleep on the beach.

One interesting tidbit regarding this region (Kerala): It has the first democratically elected Communist government. Kerala boasts the highest literacy rate in India
at 91% - not too shabby), but has other problems that keep the picture from being entirely rosy. Also, It is difficult to grasp/measure how well the controlled distribution of wealth actually impacts the general population's standard of living. Colie and I did take a walk through some back neighborhoods today, and they were lovely and clean. Little kids (often dressed quite westernized) would come out of their homes to try out their English in basic conversations with us - while their proud parents would wave and watch from their doorways. It was the first time we've had groups of kids running up to us all excited, jumping and laughing. It was really cute.

Varkala's beach is really great. It actually has some pretty fun waves for body surfing and boogey boarding - but it is the most dangerous beach in Kerala. I've never seen a beach with such constant riptides. The waves come in straight-on (perpendicular) to the beach for 10+ minutes, then they shift and begin to get bigger at a 45-degree angle to the beach - coming in toward the south. Smaller ones still come in straight. This seems to pile water up and creates a counter-clockwise spin and a very strong riptide out to the ocean. It can be very hard to fight even in knee-deep water. This river-like feature of the water has created a channel in the sand that angles out to the ocean. So, you wade out in realtively shallow water for some time until you reach the channel, then have to swim further out where the water gets more shallow again! That's where the larger waves are breaking, in 5-12 foot deep water. It is fine until the waves shift at the angle to the beach, but then you really have to watch out. The first few times the riptide pulls you, it is a bit scary (you do have to float or swim with it, if you fought against the current, you'd be spinning your wheels) - but you learn quickly and it is easy to avoid. I just make sure I shift with the waves and not hang around for the water to flow off the beach - and fully understand the literal root of the "Sink or Swim" saying. Colie and I had some sadistic fun in the more shallow parts of the channel fighting the riptide. OH! You have to watch the undertow when a big wave crosses the channel just after the waves shift from angles to perpendicular. I don't think we should learn any more about the mechanics and anomalies of this beach . . .

. . . Another note about the beach . . . caught a great wave today in about 9 feet of water - but the bigger ones have serious tubes to them. I rode the wave for a bit, but didn't turn out of the tube in time. It was all very fun, but I did get slammed hard enough to get a slight stone bruise on my heel. It's nothing to worry about, but I'll be taking a few days off from running.

I imagine we'll be in Hampi in 3 days or so! Colie sez "Hi guys!"

-John

16 comments:

chadmichael said...

I guess you guys are at about 2.5 weeks. Had any intestinal issues? Hope not. It's a good way to shed a few pounds though.

Spring is on its way here. A flower or two, and big wet snow on the peak.

Kass said...

Kiss me you fools we're (buddies included) IRISH!
I figure with Farny it's hard to see but Bijou and Gracie have enough light skin and freckles (almost daywalkers, but hurrah no gingers;-),) Everyone is getting/got spoilted for St. Patty's I think tonight we're having some Ruebens so they'll get some corned beef and this morning it was tasty moist stanky cat chow that's makin folks happy.
We are all attempting to grow some paperwhite in homage to spring. The cat's are proving excellent in the tilling of the soil and the trimming of the plants region.
Sadly, there was no green beer last night, so no green pee. :'( But I did go out after work to spend some hard earned cash on a few beer before watching Clerks.
Otherwise just continuing with life, trying not to take myself too seriously and working.
Farny still hasn't made it all the way up the scratch post. The crux is pulling yourself up those last two inches and gettin your bootty on the top (no knees! or I'll break 'em-i remember john!) Bijou and Gracie have trysts up there. Usually Gracie is sleeping in the x-box box (:-) )and Bijou comes a callin.
Now that it's all past and over, I can tell you Farny spent the first couple days hiding in my room and pouting (surprisingly Bijou was too much in love to join).
The cats are playing a CUTE game right now. Gracie is under the blanket and the buddies are coming up and patting her paw and she chases them around afrom under said blanket so it looks like my house is being attacked by a cat eating slug. the buddies are enamored,
Much love! off to procure me some corned beef (no beer. damn that sunday law!)
BESOS
love, kassia and gracie and the big big buddies.

jimsal said...

You must be enjoying each new adventure....it seems so far that you have a different experience at each of your stops and you are getting to view many facets of India...we are enjoying all of your updates and our own learning opportunity from your travels...have fun & enjoy...love...Dad & Mom

naative2 said...

I could actually visualize the two of you walking through the village, a gathering of children jogging along with you giggling and laughing.
How cool!! Just like movie stars!!
Keep the imagery flowing, & may peace walk along with you on your journey.

Channeling the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi all you need is love!
Dad

Colie said...

Still in Communist Kerala!

Greetings . . . Colie and I are leaving Alleppey tonight - by train. We'll spend tomorrow in Bangalore, then hop another train through the night to Hospet - Hampi's nearby train stop.

We've had some amazing adventures here in Kerala, and - as my folks observed - quite different than all of the others. We can see some similarities to this place and the environment of the Gungans on Naboo (Star Wars crappy episodes). This region is a patchwork of land amidst rice patties and waterways - but you'll get to see it when we update our blog. It was also very nice to get away from a touristy area in Varkala. The monsoon is hitting early - so we're going north to escape the daily, raging tempest we've endured for the past week plus.

Glad to hear that the Peak is getting Springy! Excited to explore and climb a bit in April. No major intestinal issues . . . though at times, when you gotta go - YOU GOTTA GO! There are also some places here where a silent fart actually comes off like potpourri given the stanky MacStankers in the air already.

We actually got to watch some news in our hotel here. India's news is quite interesting - it shifts from terrorism to cricket, and right back to massive displays of military might < 100 km from Pakistan, with Chinese officials present, and yet again lightheartedly back to more pressing issues of why the newly formed cricket team overlooked some veterans for faster, younger stars - who may be lacking in leadership skills. We took a page from this strategy and watched Will Ferrel's Talledega Nights: The Ballad of Ricky Bobby. Hey, he's got 2 first names!

Kassia, please don't abuse Farnsworth. I'm glad you survived (barely) St. Patrick's day . . . we'd hate to come home to three very fat cats living their own personal terrors in a version of feline "Alive" with you on the floor. Grrrreeeoooowwwuuusssoommmmeeee.

Much love to all - hopefully we'll get a chance to update the blog soon. Tons of power failures plague this state. Miss you all!

-John

Keith Leavitt said...

Hey guys,

Glad you're still having a great time! I just got back from 2 weeks in Florida, after a week in Oahu surfing with the leprechaun--not India, but not Indiana either.

Stay well and safe travels.

Keith

Kass said...

gosh. reduced to comments. where's an update when you need one?! happy non-religious easter/start of spring. The boys are being hippies and not wearing shoes or pants. I told them I'd spank them if things don't improve by the time I get home tonight. or cut their long locks. we'll see. Something drastic, I don't want you to think I haven't been a good watcher o' de catz . . . don't want them rebelling too much when their hippy parents return. ;-)
besos from all of us!

Kass said...
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Kass said...
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Kass said...

ha! so apparently when my internet is hicupping it posts a few times. sorry for all the trashed posts ;-)

jimsal said...

Great pictures.......very scenic and quite a nice price....nice pictures of both of you....regarding your expenses.....we remember the little boy that counted his cash each day as he viewed it in his early wallet....which was a sandwich baggie....he always knew the value enclosed.....then he became a banker....now, he must have returned to that little baggie to count his coins in India, so that he can take some of the coins out and spend $2.50 for your really nice rooms and much less for your meals....that little boy must just be going crazy with such deals! Colie....make sure he does not lose a single coin.....it could be very devastating!. .....however...it is great that you can enjoy such an adventure at such a reasonable expense....we are glad for you....enjoy....love....Dad & Mom

naative2 said...

Just a little bit of home for you. Kansas State wins its first round game in the NCAA Regional and so does Wisconsin. They'll meet each other in the 2nd round on Saturday. Wildcats / Badgers ??? I gotta go with Bucky

raykou said...

Hey Guys,
Great pictures and descriptions of your adventures. Sounds like the body surfing was fun but DANGEROUS! :-) Hope the foot is ok John!

The kids trying out their English is cool, have you used much of their language?

Looking forward to more!

Chat soon,
The older Ray ;-)

Anonymous said...

Hey guess how are you? Hope your having a good time in India.

Lauchen said...

Hey guys!
Still really enjoying hearing what you're doing in India, but definitely looking forward to some updates! Carl and I are leaving for our cruise in a couple days so we will let you know how that goes!

We definitely miss you!

naative2 said...

Testing 1,2,3, Testing 1, 2, 3, Can you hear me? Testing, Testing how's my signal?